Welcome to Dijon!

I made it to Dijon after another harrowing train ride. Apparently not all trains are equal in France. Turns out, not all trains in France are created equal.

I took a TER train from Lyon to Dijon. The TER train is for regional trips throughout France, no assigned seats, also NO AREA FOR YOUR LUGGAGE. I thought I was traveling light… until I actually packed. One massive suitcase, a backpack, and an extra bag full of Copper’s food for the summer. Plus, I have to carry Copper onto the train because there’s a pretty big gap between the platform and the train. She could probably make the jump, but with the chaos I want to keep her safe

I board the train — and it’s packed. I am pulling on the leash and Copper is not coming. I look back and my poor puppy is stuck in the door that divides the cars. Thank God she is not hurt. This is why I choose to carry her AND need to downsize my bags.

I manage to find a seat, but my giant suitcase is a giant road block for anyone wanting to pass. Luckily, chivalry is alive and well in France: two guys came to my rescue (possibly just to clear the blocked aisle), and it took both of them to hoist that beast into the overhead rack. My backpack and extra bag ended up under my feet.

I chose the one open seat next to a young woman who, of course, was terrified of dogs. Poor Copper was shaking too, so... excellent trip.

On the upside, the train itself was actually lovely — clean, air-conditioned, and pretty comfy. Once we got going, I let Copper lie in the aisle and she finally relaxed, I only realized this was what she needed about 90 minutes in to the two hour trip.

When we arrived, I asked a strong-looking guy for help with my suitcase. Turns out he had been a French teacher in the U.S. for a few years and was incredibly kind. He guessed my suitcase weighed around 30 kg — about 66 pounds. Oops. Looks like it’s time to downsize again and ship more things to storage.

A few tips for train travel (for you and future me):

Copper and I got settled into our absolutely adorable Airbnb and headed out to explore. Dijon immediately feels different — everything Lyon isn’t. It’s smaller, cozier, with a certain charm in the air. Maybe it’s just me, but every building feels ancient in the best way: worn, beautiful, full of history.

We wandered into the city center around 4 PM and holy smokes — packed. Clearly tourist season is alive and well. So I started mentally mapping out my must-dos:

✔ A stop at the famous Moutarde Maille for a tasting

✔ A scoop (or three) at Amorino Gelato

✔ A proper wander on Monday when things quiet down

Back at the apartment, I wanted to get Copper settled and run out to the market before the rain set in. We’ve got a full week of rain ahead — but honestly, it’s kind of lovely. The days are cooler, the rain only lasts an hour or two.

Sunday we went on our first park quest. First stop: Jardin Darcy, right in the historic center. Adorable and beautifully manicured… but it’s definitely a “people park” not a “Copper park.”

Then came the magic — that rare kind of quiet you only find in nature. We set off to find Parc de la Colombière, about 1.5 square miles of green. It’s a 30-minute walk from our place, but along the way we stumbled upon a lush walking trail through a gorgeous residential neighborhood — tree-lined, peaceful, and beautifully maintained.

Parc de la Colombière is Dijon’s largest and most classic French-style park — think symmetrical paths, grand alleys of plane trees, and wide gravel walkways that look like they belong in a period film. Originally designed in the 17th century by architect Louis II de Bourbon (yes, of Versailles connection), it’s a mix of formal French gardens and forest-style walking trails. I love this park. You feel like you are in the forest. All of the paths lead back to the main path so you are never lost and never need to really worry about where you are, you can just wander aimlessly in the tress. It is pure magic.

Copper, however, was less enchanted. Too many new smells, sights, sounds. She had a tiny meltdown, so we cut it short and headed home. Still, 10,000 steps by 10 AM! Once she settles in, I think she’ll love it too — she just needs familiarity.

As I was chillin' on the sofa, I read about a flea market at Cité de la Gastronomie — basically a food museum with a bunch of restaurants. I went from sofa to fully dressed and out the door in under five minutes. On my walk, I feel like I have finally arrived in France. Even though I have been here for five weeks. It is peaceful and beautiful. At one point I hear a piano coming from an apartment and it is just a moment I may never forget.

I stopped into Le Comptoir de la Cité for lunch. It was buffet-style (which I’m usually not into), but this one? Wonderful. The chef was there, making recommendations and even personal dishes. He convinced me to try gazpacho and an onion puff pastry — neither of which I’d normally go near. But when the chef says "try this," you try it.

The gazpacho? Life-changing. I’ve always judged cold soup... but this tasted like summer — every ingredient distinct. I raved about it, and the chef made me a takeaway bowl, just because I liked it.

That evening, Copper and I tried a new park closer to home. We ended up at one that… let’s just say had a strong “don’t come back after dark” vibe. Grateful for our Airbnb host who pointed us toward a much closer option just 3 minutes away. It’s nothing fancy, but it’s quiet, safe, and I can toss Copper the ball — which, is the secret code for “please go potty.”

Monday morning, I wandered the old town (blissfully quiet compared to Sunday). I finally made it to Moutarde Maille and yes, I spent a small fortune. Totally worth it. You can taste all the mustards, the staff is fantastic, and they ship to the U.S.! (Heads-up: it’s not processed mustard, so shelf life is about 6 months.) Looking at my goodies, I might have overdone it... but if you go, you’ll understand.

Next stop: Amorino Gelato. Let’s be honest — mine didn’t look quite as perfect as the Instagram photos, but the flavors were divine. They hand-sculpt the scoops into flowers and it’s a small work of art before it melts, into your tummy.

First Impressions of Dijon:

It’s a beautiful, sweet little city. I do feel like I should be constantly out exploring, which makes it harder to relax when I’m in the apartment. But I think that balance will come.

For now, I’m soaking up the beauty, one cobbled step at a time.

Next up: Creative workshop to make my own mustard!