Reflections on Dijon
- Find me in France
- Jun 13, 2025
- 5 min read
As my time in Dijon comes to an end, I can honestly say the trip split into two very different halves—week one and week two.
Week One
Each morning began with a short walk to a tiny nearby park where I’d throw the ball for Copper and let her do her business. It took a few days of catching the scent of baked goods wafting through the air on our three-minute walk before I realized—there’s a boulangerie right next to the park. On weekends, there’s a line out the door. Deservedly so.
Dijon is small, quaint, beautiful, ancient. Every corner holds something so lovely, I found myself constantly pulling out my phone to take a photo, only to be disappointed that the camera couldn’t quite capture the charm.
One Saturday, thank you menopause, I woke up at 3 a.m.—like, up up. After watching some Netflix, I took Copper out just before 7 a.m. and the town was completely still. It was amazing. We had it all to ourselves: the park, the empty streets, a fresh croissant. That morning we decided all our sightseeing would happen at 7 a.m. from now on.
There’s supposed to be a big flea market outside Les Halles on Saturdays. Les Halles is Dijon’s famous covered market—and yes, dogs are welcome. I thought it’d be the perfect day: a little shopping, some lunch. In reality, the outdoor vendors weren’t vintage, more... let’s say Downtown LA sidewalk goods. Not all bad, but not quite what I was looking for.
We stepped inside Les Halles and lasted all of 60 seconds. It was packed—like New York Stock Exchange-level madness. So we left.
Honestly, the market situation was one of the few cons for me. I love a good open-air market, and Dijon’s version is very much indoors. If that’s your thing, it might be perfect. For me, less so.
Sunday morning I didn’t make it out by 7 a.m., but a solid, respectable 8 a.m. The historic center, usually buzzing, was perfectly quiet—except for a few dedicated joggers. It was the ideal time to explore, take photos, and sneak into a dog-friendly café during a short rain. We went to Jardin Darcy (the city center park), popped to some of the Owl Trail sites, made a wish at the Owl at Notre Dame (see below). That might’ve been my favorite day in Dijon.
We were back at the apartment by 11 a.m. with 15,000 steps logged.
Week Two
By now, I had been through the historic center multiple times and seen the major churches. I hadn’t followed the Owl Trail in perfect order, but I’d seen many of its highlights. So I shifted gears—I needed some nature.
There are a few parks in Dijon, and my absolute favorite was Parc de la Colombière. It’s only about 1.5 miles across, but somehow feels like a forest. I’ve never been in a park that small that feels so deeply immersed in nature. Also, my favorite restaurant is at the hotel just outside the park which is a nice place to relax before the trek back to my apartment.
Another was Jardin de l’Arquebuse, more of a botanical garden. It’s smaller (just under a mile), beautiful, peaceful, and full of locals enjoying lunch. That one’s my second favorite.
Summary on Dijon.
To live: It’s small. You really have to want small-town living. Speaking French is a must, and getting involved in the local community is essential. Otherwise, it can feel isolating. Weather-wise, I experienced gloomy skies and drizzling rain, followed by boiling humidity—all in two weeks. The last few days I barely moved in the apartment—it was that hot and muggy. With no AC or even a fan, I tried to stay as still as possible. Thank God Steve got me a tiny travel fan a few years ago, it had that little thing going 24/7!
To visit: Absolutely, yes. Many people pop into Dijon for just one day, but that’s far too short in my opinion. I like to feel a city, and for that, I’d recommend three days.
General things I love. The church bells. The church bells in Dijon ring throughout the day to mark the hours, call people to Mass, and celebrate special occasions like weddings or holidays. Sometimes they ring for several minutes at a time—it’s all part of the what makes this city special.
Favorite moments: After a long day exploring the town, chillin on the sofa with the windows open and rain pouring down—when the church bells began, echoing through the rain for what seemed like forever, but was probably about five minutes.
Recommendations
Wander the historic city center – My favorite time was that early morning when I left my map behind and just followed my feet.
The Owl Trail – Dijon’s famous walking trail, marked by bronze arrows and plaques, takes you past Gothic churches, hidden courtyards, and the charming carved owl at Notre-Dame. Legend has it if you rub it with your left hand and make a wish, it’ll come true. (You can read all about it here if you are curious.)
These cuties are all over Dijon guiding you Les Halles – Go see it for yourself! Even if it wasn’t my favorite, it’s worth a quick walkthrough, especially if you like food markets.
Maison Maille – My number one recommendation. Go for a mustard tasting. Trust me, you’ll never look at mustard the same way again. They ship worldwide!
Amorino Gelato – Because... gelato shaped like a flower. Enough said.
Visit the parks – Especially Parc de la Colombière. Bring a picnic.
Food Favorites
There were a few places I didn’t get to, but these are the ones I loved:
Beurre Noisette – Excellent bakery.
Boulangerie Buffon – Where I finally figured out those morning croissant smells.
Café de L’Industrie – Surprisingly good fish and chips.
La Causerie des Mondes – Possibly the best chicken sandwich of my life.
Morning Glory Café – A basic breakfast done really well.
O-Crousti Poulet – I went here almost daily. A quarter roast chicken with rice or pasta for 6 euros. Total comfort food.
Café Gourmand – Classic beef bourguignon.
Hotel Restaurant du Parc de la Colombière – A favorite. It’s right outside the park. I went twice (and almost a third time). Meals are an event here—at least an hour, and both times were superb.
While Dijon won’t be my permanent home, it will always hold a little space in my heart. It’s a special town, and I’m really glad I made time to stop here.
Tomorrow I hop a six-hour TGV train. Movies are downloaded, bags are repacked (finally down to just one backpack and a suitcase). Luckily, it’s a fast train with a place for my luggage and an assigned seat. I am hoping my anxiety over the train system goes away at some point, but this doesn't help—the train stops in Antibes for exactly three minutes, haha - wish me luck.
Excited to get back to the ocean. My next apartment is right next to a big park for Coppie. So as always… more to come.
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